More of the 1930’s: Get The Look of Kay Francis

Kay Francis 1934

I love this magazine of Kay Francis. The colors are beautiful. To get this polished 30’s look do the following:

FACE: Apply a medium coverage liquid foundation such as Physician’s Formula Organic Wear Liquid Foundation. Apply concealer where needed. L’Oreal Infallible Concealer is a nice all-purpose concealer. Lightly dust a translucent powder over the face such as Coty AirSpun Loose Powder. Cheeks are very pink. Apply a hot pink powder blush like NARS Powder Blush in Desire to the apples of cheeks. A little bit of this shade goes a long way.

EYES: Brows are thin and penciled in. For a “waxy” authentic 1930’s brow look, apply a brow pencil and do not blend. I recommend Covergirl Brow Shaper. There is a Midnight Black for Kay’s look. Use Physician’s Formula Organic Wear Duo Eye Shadow in Brown Eyes. Apply the lightest shade, a soft warm ivory, from lash line to brow bone. Take the darker brown shade and blend into the crease. Take a small eyeshadow brush and line the bottom lashes with the darker brown shade used in the crease. Take a sheer gold shadow such as Bare Escentuals Bare Minerals Glimmer Eyeshadow in True Gold, and apply to the lid. Apply it sweeping from the side closest to the nose to the center of the lid. This creates a “glowing” look. Apply a brown kohl liner for a smoky look. Try something L’Oreal HIP Kohl Liner in Brown Kohl. Take a fine liner brush and dip it into the powder. Line eyes and smudge with a shadow brush. Apply liner to top and bottom lashes. Keep applying enough to you reach your desired level of “smokiness”. Apply a few coats of a black/brown mascara such as Covergirl Lash Blast Lengthening Mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are red and glossy. Apply a sheerer red such as Lipstick Queen Lipstick in Red Saint. Apply a red lip gloss with shimmer. Apply Lipstick Queen Big Bang Theory Illusion Gloss in Energy over lipstick. A sheerer option is to use NARS Lip Gloss/Lip Stain Duo in Moon Fleet/Indian Red Coat with the stain and follow with the gloss.

 

More of the 1940’s: Get The Look of June Allyson

This is such a soft and delicate vintage look. I love the freshness of this look. Everything is fairly simple and it is all about a healthy, glossy lip. Anyone can wear a look like this. The neutral colors look great with all kinds of eye and hair colors.

FACE: Apply a simple foundation such as Covergirl Smoothers Liquid Foundation to even out the complexion. If extra coverage in some areas is needed, apply a concealer like Covergirl Fresh Complexion Concealer. Dust a loose powder in your color over the foundation and concealer to absorb oil and to set the foundation. Almay Nearly Naked Loose Powder is a nice formula for the price. A sheer blush should be added to the apples of the cheeks. I love the neutral color of Jane Be Pure Mineral Blush in Rose Silk.

EYES: Brows are perfectly shaped and only need a clear brow gel to keep them in their place. Try something like Revlon Brow Styling Gel. Eye makeup is very simple and fuss-free. All you need is a neutral duo such as NARS Eyeshadow Duo in Portobello. Apply the lightest beige shade from lash line to brow bone. Apply the darker beige in the crease. Take a brown eye liner and apply closely to the top lash line. Clarins Eye Liner Pencil in Brown is a nice and smooth pencil liner. Curl lashes and apply a coat of a brown/black mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are a nice rose and glossy. Apply a sheer lip liner such as Dior Glossy Liner in Glossy Rose. This will keep the lip gloss from bleeding. Apply a simple pink/rose lipstick such as Lipstick Queen in Rose Saint. Apply a shiny lip gloss over this color. Try something like Kiss My Face Organic Shine in Ruby. Apply it to a lip brush as to not “wipe” off your lipstick color. Or you can apply something like MAC Slimshine Lipstick in Intimidate, a sheer plummy rose lipstick. It won’t be as shiny but it makes this a “quick” and every day look.

I say that this look calls for a fruity-rose fragrance such as Creed Spring Flowers EDP.

 

More of the 1920’s: Get The Look Of Josephine Baker

Josephine was such a beautiful and talented person making her a perfect icon. This is an ad for her hair product. Here look would look amazing on anyone with warm undertones. Here’s how to get this look:

FACE: Apply a concealer if needed. I love the creaminess of Lancome Maquicomplet Complete Coverage Concealer. Apply a powder foundation such as MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation. With a powder foundation, no finishing powder is really needed. Josephine’s cheeks are pretty bare. For myself, I would need a little bit of color. Apply a powder bronzer such as Clinique True Bronze Bronzer Powder in your appropriate shade to cheeks. This adds a bit of color and keeps the lipstick from “washing” you out.

EYES: In true theatrical 20’s fashion, eye brows are drawn on pencil thin. Fill in or in Josephine’s case, draw in, brows. Try a product like Covergirl Expert Eyes Brow Pencil. The formula is a bit waxy but it does come in deeper colors. For a “candlelit” glow, apply a slightly shimmery cream shadow such as Too Faced Lockdown Creaseless Cream Eye Shadow. There are two shades of the very neutral Lovey Dovey. Choose the color that suits you. The cream shadow will help “hold” the other shadows that you will use. Choose a medium shimmery bronze such as Vincent Longo Wet Diamond Eyeshadow in Temptest Bronze. Apply this from the lash line to the crease. With eyes open, apply this bronze shade slightly “winging” out. Use the motion that you would use for cateyed liquid liner except at your crease instead of lash line. Take a deep brown shadow such as Jane Eye Zing Super Smooth Shadow in Browny Points. Apply it in the same way as the bronze except stopping just below the copper. Blend. Keep adding until you get your desired variation of a cateyed smoky eyed look. Here’s a trick for this. Take a square of TP and fold it like a triangle. Use this is a template for your shade. Hold this triangle at the outer edge of your lash line in a 45 degree angle. Brush on the shadow. You’ll get an exaggerated look and it will keep the dark colors from getting all over your face. Take a dark brown pencil liner such as Avon Ultra Luxury Eye Liner in Dark Brown and apply it to the upper lash line thickly and winging out. Apply this liner to the bottom lash line and inside the rim. Connect the top and bottom “lines”. Apply a nice mascara such as MAC Pro Lash to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Apply a rust colored lip liner such as Lipstick Queen Lip Liner in Rust around your natural lip line. Apply a sheer burnt red lipstick such as Lipstick Queen Lipstick in Rust Saint. Apply a warm coral lip gloss to lips such as MAC Tinted Lipglass in Light That Fire, a coral with gold shimmer.

Crazylilbellule & The Poppies has a Josephine inspired scent in their Les Garçonnes collection: Joséphine Jonquille. It’s a lush blend of jasmine and gourmand dark chocolate.

More Josephine pics here.

 

More of the 1950’s: Get The Look of Märta Torén

I love a rusty colored lip. And can one go wrong with retro cateyes? Nope.

To get beautiful Märta Torén’s look:

FACE: Marta’s complexion is flawless. Apply concealer where needed. Shiseido Concealer Stick can cover anything from blemishes to undereye circles. Follow up with foundation. Try a mousse foundation like Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse Foundation. This is a nice formula and it looks great if you buff it after applying with a “buff” brush. Lightly dust a translucent powder over the face. I love MAC Select Sheer Loose Powder. Apply a coral/orange powder blush to cheeks. Take a fluffy brush and apply Paul & Joe Face Color in Moroccan Orange to light-medium skin tones or a shade like Kevyn Aucoin The Pure Powder Glow Cheek Color in Fira (a mango orange, not pictured) for medium-dark skin tones.

EYES: Marta’s eyebrows are amazing. To get a similar look, make sure everything is cleaned up, tweeze and tweeze. Take a brow pencil that is slightly powdery such as my all time favorite Lancome Le Crayon Poudre (not pictured) in your shade. Fill in brows and brush into place with the spoolie on the end. Shadow is matte and neutral. All  you need are the colors that are in NARS Eyeshadow Duo in Portabello. Apply the lightest shade from lash line to brow bone. With eyes open, apply the darker shade in the compact above the crease. Blend until it looks completely seamless. Next we go to the cat eyes. Get a black gel liner like Bobbi Brown Long-Wearing Gel Liner in Caviar Ink. Take the liner brush of your choice, for me this is a fine liner art brush and apply to the top lash line and wing out. I do this with my eyes slightly open and “tugging” it into place with the other hand. Apply false lashes or a few coats of a lengthening mascara such as L’Oreal Lash Out Lengthening and Separating Mascara in Black. Apply 1-2 coats to bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are a soft rusty orange. Apply concealer around lips to keep color from feathering. Make sure to blend thoroughly. Apply a rusty golden shade like Lancome Color Design Lipcolor in Groupie, a great color of orange red and gold shimmer (this would look better on deeper skintones). Another great color if you want more orange is Lancome Color Designe Lipcolor in Studded. Studded is more Marta-ish. I apologize for the crummy pictures. The colors are much more vivid and lovely in real life. Apply a sheer gold lip gloss to bottom lips for a plump effect. I recommend Lipstick Queen Shine in Gold Saint.

Choosing a fragrance has been hard for this “look”. I’d have to go with Byredo Parfums Pulp. Perhaps because of the “Swedish” influences?

 

More of the 1940’s: Get The Look of a Wintery Esther Williams

This 1949 pic of Esther is a bit grainy but she is still looking great. This gal transitions nicely from mermaid to snow bunny. This is how you get this wintery look:

FACE: Esther’s complexion is luminous even in the harsh winter air. Apply an illuminating foundation during these “dull” times. A nice one with more coverage is Clarins True Radiance Foundation. Apply an illuminating concealer under the eye area if needed. Almay Bright Eyes Concealer + Eye Base is a multi-use product that provides coverage and not just “shimmer” like most eye illuminators. Apply this product to lids as a base as well. Set makeup with a loose powder. Bare Escentuals BareMinerals Hydrating Mineral Veil is nice for dry winterized skin. Apply one of my favorite complexion pick-me-ups, Benefit High Beam. down the cheek bone. Blend. Apply MAC Blushcreme in Ladyblush to cheeks. Apply as much as you see fit and blend.

EYES: Brows are pencil perfect. Fill in perfectly shaped brows with a powdery eye pencil like Lancome Le Crayon Poudre Powder Pencil (not pictured) in your shade. Sculpt in to place with the spoolie. Eyes are very simple and it is all about flirty lashes. The base has evened out your lid. Apply a nude-to-you shadow. For Esther, this would be something like Laura Mercier Mineral Eye Powder in Gemstone, a sheer light peach. If you feel a bit more definition is needed. Apply a light brown shade to the crease. Try a shade like Maybelline ExpertWear Eyeshadow in Silken Taupe. Line top lashes with an eye liner to “thicken” lashes. I would apply a smooth liner such as Neutrogena Nourishing Eye Liner . Curl lashes and apply a lengthening and curling mascara like L’Oreal Panoramic Curl Extreme Mascara. Apply a few coats to top lashes and one coat to bottom lashes for a wide-eyed look.

LIPS: This is such a classic beauty look. Apply a rose lip liner such as Dior Crayon Contour Lip Liner in Candy Rose . Apply a satin rose lipstick like Milani Velvet Lips Lipstick in Lavish, a mulberry rose. Add some shine with a clear lip gloss with silver shimmer such as Lipstick Queen Shine in Silver Saint. If you really want to warm up in winter, apply DuWop Moon Venom. This adds a silver sparkle and lots of lip plumping “burn”.

And for a fragrance to finish this flirty mermaid-turned-snowbunny-look, I recommend Karl Lagerfield Kapsule Light EDT, a mix of juicy citrus, flowers, and winter spices.

 

Get The Look Of Lady Jane Grey

I am aware that I am a super, mega nerd for posting this one (as if all the Martin Denny Exotica babes or 60’s Star Trek babes wasn’t enough to admit into the super, mega nerd club). But, I just love the simplicity of this “regal” look. How badly I wish I was a natural redhead!

FACE: The face is flawless. Apply concealer where needed. Fresh Umbrian Clay Absolute Concealer is nice for blemishes. Apply an “all purpose” foundation like L’Oreal True Match Liquid Makeup. Dust with a powder to absorb oil and to make foundation stay on longer. I love T. LeClerc Loose Powder. The painting gives a blush free look. I could not go blushless. Every time I do people always ask me if I am feeling well (how rude). I would use a sheer and natural but not show stealing blush, something like Lipstick Queen Oxymoron Lip Gloss in Free Ride, a sheer peach. Yep, it says lip gloss but it can be worn on cheeks as well.

EYES: The bummer about being a natural redhead would include barely there brows. I like this look in a theatrical way. My brows are dark and I always have to use a tinted brow gel when I dye my hair red. For this look I would recommend a clear brow gel like Palladio Herbal Brow Gel. Eye makeup is very simple. I would take the platinum shade from NARS Duo Cream Eyeshadow in Thebes and apply to the entire eye lid. I would take the warmer shade and apply it from lash line to crease. I wouldn’t do mascara for this look. I sometimes think we over use mascara. Sometimes not having mascara creates an impact. I know that this is asking too much. If you feel like you look like a mutant without mascara, apply a black/brown or brown mascara to bottom and top lashes.

LIPS: Lips are “rusty”. Line lips with a “nude” lipliner like Smashbox The Nude Lip Liner. I would say for this look you’d want Fair. I love the pretty shade of Lipstick Queen Saint Lipstick in Rust Saint. It isn’t bright but it isn’t too brown.

It’s a simple look, very regal. It would look great on fair redheads or blondes.

 

Get The Look of Raven Haired Beauty Hedy LaMarr

September 1943 classichollywoodbios.com

Who doesn’t want to look like a totally hot babe actress and totally hot babe scientist? Seriously.

FACE: While you are working on your canvas, apply a nourishing lip balm like Yu-Be Lip Balm. This is important because this is a matte lip look and lips need to be moist and chap-free. Hedy’s complexion is matte and flawless. First even out complexion with a matte foundation such as YSL Matt Touch Foundation. Apply concealer where needed. Estee Lauder Smoothing Creme Concealer is great for under the eyes. I wouldn’t wear powder with this look since a matte foundation was used. But, if you are oily, do dust lightly with a translucent powder to set the makeup. Take a big fluffy brush and apply a coral pink blush to cheeks. A color like Benefit Coralista will really brighten the complexion without being brash. It really is a great coral blush for pale skins.

EYES: Heidy’s brows are penciled. We all can’t do that. However, the brows should be nicely manicured. If necessary fill in the brows with a pencil such as Tarte EmphasEyes High Definition Brow Pencil. This is a thin pencil with a spoolie on one end. Eyes are very neutral and it is all about the lashes. Apply a nude matte shadow from lash line to brows. For a complexion like Hedy’s this would be Revlon Matte Eyeshadow in Vintage Lace. Apply a sheer light brown shade from lash line to crease. A color like Bare Escentuals Eyeshadow in Bisque. If you have a bronzer this will do too. Apply it like an eyeshadow. In the crease apply a light steel color like Dr.Hauschka Eyeshadow Solo in #4, a smoky gray brown. Also apply this gray closely to the bottom lash line to give the illusion of fuller bottom lashes. Line eyes closely with a gel eyeliner like Shu Uemura Painting Gel Eyeliner in M Black. I think false lashes are a must for this look but mascara will do to. Apply what you want.

LIPS: Lips are matte and pretty bold. Wipe off lip balm. Apply foundation to the lips to create a blank canvas. Apply Lipstick Queen Lip Liner in Rust. Apply a matte rust lipstick like Sue Devitt Balanced Matte Lipstick in Phuket, a perfectly matte rusty red. If you must have a glossier lip, more satin because you are not used to matte lipsticks, try Lipstick Queen Saint Lipstick in Rust. It’s a rusty shade with a bit more sheen.

It’s really difficult to decide what fragrance a beauty like Hedy would wear. But, I would have to go with something modern, woodsy but femme like Tom Ford Private Blend Black Violet. Now if you will excuse me, I need to go dye my hair to a nice raven shade. I am loving this look for fall.

 

Summer Angel: Get The Look of Cheryl Ladd

This is my Cheryl Ladd playing the role of Malibu Barbie look. It is sun-kissed and carefree, easy to wear and perfect for summer.

Face: First even out the complexion. Apply a tinted moisturizer such as Benefit You Rebel in your shade (only 2 to choose from). If you want a bit more of a bronze look, mix a little or lot (depending on your desired level of bronze) of Benefit Talk To The Tan. Apply concealer to areas of need. L’Oreal Visible Lift Concealer is nice for dark circles. If you have a tendency to get oily, apply a loose powder such as Neutrogena Healthy Skin Loose Powder. If your skin is normal to dry, you can live without powder, this look needs to look “healthy” and not cakey. Try a blotting sheet throughout the day instead such as Neutrogena Shine Control Blotting Sheets. Apply a coral-ish bronze blush to cheeks such as Revlon Beyond Natural Blush in Peach.

EYES: Brows are simple. Just brush into place with a brow gel like Amazing Cosmetics Brow Gel. For the eyes use L’Oreal Eye Shadow Quad in Milla’s Blues. Apply the lightest shade, a pale beige, from lashline to brows. Use the warm medium brown (#2) from lashline to crease. In the crease, blend the next darkest brown (#3). In the outermost “crease” area in a “V” shade, blend the darkest shade in the quad. Blend until it looks seamless. Take the darkest shade and dip a fine, angled lining brush into it. Line the bottom lash line. If you feel more “depth” is needed. Line top lashes, very closely to the lashline, with L’Oreal Le Kohl Pencil Smooth Defining Eyeliner in Cafe. Curl lashes and apply a few coats of mascara to top and bottom lashes. You may want to use a volumizing formula such as L’Oreal Voluminous.

Lips: Lips are sheer with just a kiss of orange/coral. Apply Lipstick Queen Chinatown Glossy Pencils in Genre, a super sheer shade with a wow! hint of orange.

The skin is bronzed. You can kind of cheat a tan with Sue Devitt Tinted Body Bronzer. It has a very pretty scent of frangipani. A nice “matching” summer scent is Lucy B. Pink Frangipani Fragrance,  available in a travel friendly roll-on.

 

Get The Classic Sexy Look of Veronica Lake

September 1941

Lately, I’ve been wanting Veronica Lake hair badly. This I can’t do, being that I have blunt bangs. The grass is always greener on the other side, right? And I need a “safer” look since I will be toting a sledgehammer and remodeling the new house 🙂 But, I can get this classic look. Anybody can really. It is great for all hair colors, eye colors, and most complexions.

Face: First, even out complexion by applying concealer where needed. I like Clinique All About Eyes Concealer. Apply a matte powder foundation such as Lancome Dual Finish Powder Foundation. Cheeks are super nude. Apply a faint dusting of a natural looking bronzer such as Rimmel Natural Bronzer in a shade closest to your skintone.

Eyes: Brows are perfectly brushed into place and filled in. I love Lancome Le Crayon Poudre Powder Pencil. It has a soft texture and a spoolie on one end. Apply a beige shadow closest to your skintone all over the eye area. A little shimmer is nice. For me, I would use Clinique Colour Surge Eye Shadow in Buff. Line eyes with a black gel liner such as Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner. Line top lashes only with a crisp line. Veronica has OTT false lashes and I love them. Apply false lashes for the “real deal” (something like Laura Mercier’s lashes) or just go for a lengthening mascara such as Urban Decay Skyscraper Multi-Benefit Mascara. Apply mascara to bottom lashes also.

Lips: Veronica had an amazing and dramatic lip line. Pat concealer around the lips to give the illusion of plump lips and to keep lipstick from bleeding. If you want a dramatic lip line, apply Lipstick Queen Lip Liner in Rose. You can slightly go around your top lip line to exaggerate if you do not have a “natural” lip line like Veronica’s. Apply a full-coverage lipstick like Lipstick Queen Sinner Lipstick in Rose. Apply a dab of a hydrating lip balm such as Smith’s Minted Rose Lip Balm to the center of your bottom lip for a pouty and plump look.

I think a spritz of Badgley Mischka is appropriate for this look. It’s a modern fragrance but it definitely Old Hollywood.

 

Feeling Vampy? A Dark Lipstick Lip Color Guide

I have a thing for dark lipstick. It is a bit tricky and intimidating but that is why I love it. It’s dramatic. I would like to say that I wear it during the cooler months but to be honest, I like to be taboo and sport it in the warmer months as well. I love a deep, dark, berry stained pout. I love to feel vampy like Theda Bara’s image. I like to feel a bit “runway”. And frankly, I am a closet goth. This is my way of saying I’m OK with the cruel, cruel world.

Dark lipsticks and lip colors are so tricky because of skintone. However, I think that anybody can get away with it if you possess enough attitude. I don’t care if you are dark with gold undertones or ghostly pale with a visible vein road map. It works. It just takes some playing around and lots of confidence. Dark lips create a “harsh” look and you must be able to deal. It does show more imperfections. Lips must be smooth and healthy. Dark lipsticks will cling to dry spots resulting in an unattractive splotchy look. So keep lips moisturized. It is good for them anyways. I’m not going to create any other rules with the rest of the makeup when you wear darks. I like it with a perfectly matte face, sheer nude eyes with or without mascara. I like it with kohl rimmed eyes like Miss Bara’s. I like it with dewey cheeks or matte cheeks. It just doesn’t matter. Just make sure lips are moisturized.

For the Ballsy: I’m talking deep, dark, and dramatic. These colors are rarely for the meek. These are the colors for maximum drama. I’m talking you would wear black lipstick. None of this YSL glamour black gloss. I’m talking something like NYX Lipstick in Penelope, a rich angsty shock your Christian mother black. It retails for $3.50 so that you will even have enough money left to purchase black nail polish and a pentagram necklace 🙂 from Hot Topic. Lips need to be smooth. Coat this stuff on, a lip primer does help from keeping this stuff smooth. NYX also has a wonderful deep burgundy called Almost Black. It has a bit more depth than the straight up black stuff. I also like Egg Plant for a dark purple look. All retail for $3.50. MAC has a nice Lipstick in Cyber which is a black purple with a satin finish. It is a bit hard to work with because it has too much “slip”. It retails for $14. Make Up For Ever has a lovely glimmery navy lipstick in Pearly Blue Black and it retails for $19. I also like their Blueberry which is a deep berry. Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Black Cherry is a deep blood wine lipstick with a bit of sheen. It retails for $7.99.

For the Closet Goth: For a deep lip with a bit of color, try YSL Rouge Volupte Silky Sensual Lipstick in Forbidden Burgundy, a rich deep berry. Plus, the packaging will make you feel like a queen. As it should with its $34 price tag. One of my favorites is MAC Viva Glam III which is a matte deep plum. It is dark but it looks “classic” and not a bit like a purple crushed velvet cape. It retails for $14. Another one that is nice is the new Revlon Matte Collection Lipstick in Wine Not. It is a deep, classic matte wine that retails for $7.99. Max Factor Lipfinity 3D Maxwear Lipcolor in Violet Vamp is a nice medium wine with a purple shimmer topcoat that retails for $8.99 (no longer available in the US). Lipstick Queen Wine Sinner Lipstick is one of my favorite blackberry wine shades. It retails for $18. Also I love Chanel Creme Lipstick in Vamp which retails for $28.

For the Wusses: Go for something dark but really sheer. It makes you feel edgy without getting strange stares from your co-workers. I like Urban Decay Apocalypse which is a sheer blackberry in killer packaging. It has a soft vanilla fragrance and retails for $22. One of the best for this category is Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey. It’s so popular for its edge but wearable factor. It feels great on the lips and retails for $14. Black Radiance has a sheer deep-red  brown Radiant Lip Gloss in Mocha Madness. It retails for $2.99 and looks great over other colors to “deepen” them. A lip stain is always a way to get color without harshness. Try something like Urban Decay Lip Envy in Greedy which retails for $17. Lipstick Queen Big Bang Theory Lip Gloss in Black Hole is a lovely deep wine shimmer. It is buildable for more or less drama. It retails for $20. Or for the daring, wouldn’t you love to bust out a black lipstick during a board meeting or something? Try Lipstick Queen Black Tie Optional Lipstick for $18. It is super sheer, and yes black. It just adds a tiny bit of darkness.