Since being involved with this 30’s home renovation, I have been obsessed with 30’s everything. If I’m not peeling wallpaper, then I am out at the home salvage places looking for the back of my deco speakeasy. I’ve spent more time paying attention to the 30’s and more than just home trends. This includes 30’s hair and makeup. I must brag that my marcel waves are improving. I absolutely adore this look of bleached blonde turned red head Sybille Schmitz of Vampyr fame. (One of my all time favorite movies and you’ll notice many of my “favorites” in this look).

FACE: Skin is matte and perfect. Apply concealer where needed. A stick concealer usually can do it all and I love the packaging of Paul & Joe Stick Concealer. Apply a powder foundation like MAC Studio Fix, one of my all time favorites. Apply a pinching pink blush to the apples of cheeks with a large fluffy brush or a soft fan brush. NARS Powder Blush in Desire is the perfect color for this look. It is one of my all time favorite blushes for light to medium complexions.

EYES: Fill in brows with a brow pencil. 1930’s brows always had a bit of a waxy look. Apply a stiff pencil like Maybelline Expert Eyes Twin Brow Pencil in a shade darker than your hair if you are going for a genuine 30’s look. Apply a subtle champagne shimmer shadow to the entire lid from lash line to brows. I like Clinique Colour Surge Soft Shimmer Eye Shadow in Champagne. A warm brown shadow should be applied to the crease. L’Oreal Wear Infinite Eye Shadow Single in Brushed Suede is a nice rich, warm brown. Apply to the crease. Apply more of the champagne to closed lids and apply where the pupil would be if your eyes were open. This will add some light. Take the brown shade and apply to the bottom lash line with a smudger brush. This will make the lashes appear thicker. Apply a soft, dark brown kohl liner to top lash line. Don’t wing out and stay close to the lash line. Apply a shade like MAC Eye Kohl in Costa Riche. Whimsy false lashes are a must for this look. There are many out there with a variety of price points. I like the look of Laura Mercier Full Faux Lashes for this look. Apply mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are pink and pretty simple. Try a color like Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-In-Place Lipstick in Stay Pink. Apply a tiny dab of Smith’s Rosebud Salve (another favorite) to lips to keep them looking healthy and moist. And that’s it. Well, those finger waves, I’m saving that for another day.

As I went to the local MAC store with the intent to purchase everything in the Style Black collection for my goth self, I was more smitten by the Fall/Winter 09 Trends collection. I’ll be sure to share all of that soon. I came across this limited edition Asphalt Flower fragrance roll-on. I loved both of the limited edition honey fragrances this past summer and to my surprise, I am now in love with another MAC fragrance. They have really been stepping up their game with these limited edition, low price point fragrances.

If you are a violet lover, then give this one a try. I absolutely adore violet fragrances. I live off of Choward’s Violet Mints. I love “green” morning dew violet scents but I really, really love those “candied” ones because I am such a fan of candied violets. Asphalt Flower reminds me of a glammed up interpretation of the bottom of my huge Hobo International messenger bag. The top notes remind me of the runaway Choward’s Violet Mints that hang around in their gang in the bottom of my purse abyss. They get crushed up weekly into a fine, sugary dust and get all over my wallet. It’s leather and candied violets. Asphalt Flower’s top notes are a sugary sweet violet with rainy, tsunami drenched tropical flowers like soft and humid ylang-ylang and powdery heliotrope. This is grounded by old-fashioned iris. I love this phase it wears this way for about an hour. It reminds me of being in an Industrial Revolution era green house, in the midst of lovely white and purple flowers drenched in mist, outside the coal clouds swarm in winter rain. It’s so pretty, powdery, feminine, and old-fashioned. It’s sweet with a bit of gloomy, rainy humidity mixed with oil. It’s very gothic with an Edwardian flair. The complete dry-down is very moody and extremely sexy with Tom Ford White Patchouli type of patchouli, that synthetic “clean” patchouli that works so well with these modern blends, smoky olbanum, and lots and lots of that MAC vanilla that is used in their other blends. I’m usually not a fan of vanilla but it really works in this mix. It adds a certain sexiness. It’s not a candy or vanilla bean vanilla but more of a dirty, musky, leathery vanilla. MAC describes this fragrance as “a deep, dark erotic fragrance that takes place in our Trend F/W ’09 Collection as the aromatic complement to this alt-fashion look.” It is a very “alt-fashion” fragrance. The entire collection strikes me as my personal fashion color collection dream come true. It is dark, rich and sooo Edwardian, turn of the century goth, that look that unfortunately Tim Burton brought mainstream. This fragrance is so dark, gloomy, intoxicating with a hint of the old-fashioned. It seriously reminds me of the Industrial Revolution. It’s romantic with violet and iris but a bit animalic and sooty. It’s that time because it is urban, industrial with artistic Romanticism, upper class stuffiness, lower class rawness mixed with a  desire for the occult. I find it very “me” and exactly what I wanted for the fall/winter rainy season in Seattle. This is great because the roll-on retails for $20. The bummer is that it is a limited edition. And if I want to replace it I am going to have to get something like Tom Ford Private Blends Black Violet. I will be picking up another one of these roll-ons. Also, this fragrance is very long-wearing. It lasts at the same intensity on my skin for 8+ hours. There may only be .2 fl.oz. in this roll-on but this container will last much longer than MAC’s spray on fragrances.

I’d say to give this one a try if you are fan of candied violets, the closest I can compare it to include: Tom Ford Private Blends Black Violet, Tokyo Milk Parfum Le Petit or Dead Sexy, Nanette Lepore Nanette, Guerlain Insolence, Penghalion’s Ellenisia, Serge Lutens Bois de Violette, Borsari Violetta di Parma, and/or Armani Pierre de Lune.

This fragrance is what the name implies. It is a rich, warm, and seductive scent. The packaging is perfect and contains a skull and crossbones, suggesting the poisonous side of the product. (Who doesn’t love the antiquarian styled packaging?) Initially I wasn’t attracted to the product despite its cool packaging. To be honest, I found the name dull and boring. “Sexy” is an overused and bastardized word. I mean if it is being used by some slimy designer on HGTV to describe a ceiling fan, then it is dead. Yep, dead is “sexy”.

However, I am so pleased that I was talked into and had a chance to try this fragrance. Dead Sexy is warm and comforting without being overly sweet. It is perfect for these chilly and drizzly and moody western Washington days. This fragrance is the epitome of the “modern woods” fragrance genre. In the beginning this fragrance is a high quality vanilla liquor and a dry, rare woods blend. It is almost oud-ish but less abrasive. It has a bit of a smokiness which is what I think makes this so sexy. It reminds me of being in an Old World “bordello” filled with the abstract incense smoke and fine wooden furniture and the softest linens, surrounded by ebony panels. It’s luxe and goth in An Interview With A Vampire way. Once it starts to dry down, it is more of a “woods” scent. The vanilla is there but it isn’t as “liquory”.  The vanilla is smoky and incensey. It just smells of a melange of  rich and slightly sweet “modern” woods. These woods aren’t dirty. They are round and robust and very feminine. There is the faintest aroma of delicate white petals. It smells more like your in this “bordello” and you pick up a whiff of little white flowers in a vase next to a candelabra filled with burning candles. The florals are there but almost ghostly, you catch their cold “feeling” every now and then amongst the warm woods. In fact, this blend is a great balance of “warm” and “cool” like a rich mahogany bed with crisp, smooth sheets. It has a mix of exotic and precious woods, smoky vanilla, rich amber-like resins, and a dash of flirty petals. It’s a beautiful thing, really. This scent reminds me of vampy Theda Bara. This is a must have fragrance for all the real-life vamps and working goths out there.

This fragrance is a sexy (not my favorite adjective but fitting for this scent) scent that isn’t overwhelming like most “modern woods”. I wear it during the day. It is soft but very rich and bewitching. It wears closely to the skin for a few hours. I say about 4-5 hours of wear. It contains notes of deep vanilla, exotic wood, white orchid, and ebony. I would say to give this one a try if you like dry woodsy scents, Tom Ford Oud Wood,  Tom Ford White Patchouli, Estee Lauder Sensuous, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, Nanette Lepore Nanette, Prada EDP, Calvin Klein Euphoria, and/or Laura Mercier Minuit Enchanté.

The 1 ounce spray retails for $28 (a steal) and can be purchased at b-glowing.com.

So yep, it is so. P & G is phasing out Max Factor cosmetics (commonly sold at Wal-Mart and drugstore.com) starting in 2010 in the U.S. but they are going to continue selling it abroad.  Read about the details here. It’s kind of a bummer. Man, the economy sucks.

Max Factor recently went through that new “edgy” image change with the faces of Carmen Electra and Gisele. They began to offer bolder color choices, even if all the pigments didn’t always live up. I personally love their lipcolors and the bright mascaras. They are the only drugstore makeup line that I know of that offers an Auburn mascara for redheads. I have been through so many tubes of those when I dyed my hair auburn. The Lipfinity 3D  line is really nice and offers some strange color combos like Chartreuse Blend, a lovely blend of green shimmer and deep vampy plum, Midori Glam, a rose with yellow gold shimmers, Violet Vamp, a mauve with lilac shimmers, and Raging Sea, a hot pink with teal shimmer.

The eye shadow trios rarely got rave reviews but I didn’t mind them. I’ve used them for photo shoots and stage performances. You put an eyeshadow primer under this stuff and apply it wet and you get a bold yellow for way less than MAC Chrome Yellow (under $5 for 3 shades). I think people tried to wear the 3 colors all together and that is just a bad idea with all of the trios.

I’m mainly just saddened because I have a heart for “old”. I  love the gentleman, Max Factor. If you are a makeup artist or not, you’ve got to appreciate this fellow. I mean this is the man that literally invented “lip gloss”. Oh, the faces he has touched and the women that he has made famous! (Clara Bow’s pierrot lips, Joan Crawford’s lip line, reds that weren’t too brash for Jean Harlow’s platinum locks). I just don’t want his “name” to die. I also don’t want to fight somebody for the last Lipfinity 3D Chartreuse Blend.


I have a thing for dark lipstick. It is a bit tricky and intimidating but that is why I love it. It’s dramatic. I would like to say that I wear it during the cooler months but to be honest, I like to be taboo and sport it in the warmer months as well. I love a deep, dark, berry stained pout. I love to feel vampy like Theda Bara’s image. I like to feel a bit “runway”. And frankly, I am a closet goth. This is my way of saying I’m OK with the cruel, cruel world.

Dark lipsticks and lip colors are so tricky because of skintone. However, I think that anybody can get away with it if you possess enough attitude. I don’t care if you are dark with gold undertones or ghostly pale with a visible vein road map. It works. It just takes some playing around and lots of confidence. Dark lips create a “harsh” look and you must be able to deal. It does show more imperfections. Lips must be smooth and healthy. Dark lipsticks will cling to dry spots resulting in an unattractive splotchy look. So keep lips moisturized. It is good for them anyways. I’m not going to create any other rules with the rest of the makeup when you wear darks. I like it with a perfectly matte face, sheer nude eyes with or without mascara. I like it with kohl rimmed eyes like Miss Bara’s. I like it with dewey cheeks or matte cheeks. It just doesn’t matter. Just make sure lips are moisturized.

For the Ballsy: I’m talking deep, dark, and dramatic. These colors are rarely for the meek. These are the colors for maximum drama. I’m talking you would wear black lipstick. None of this YSL glamour black gloss. I’m talking something like NYX Lipstick in Penelope, a rich angsty shock your Christian mother black. It retails for $3.50 so that you will even have enough money left to purchase black nail polish and a pentagram necklace 🙂 from Hot Topic. Lips need to be smooth. Coat this stuff on, a lip primer does help from keeping this stuff smooth. NYX also has a wonderful deep burgundy called Almost Black. It has a bit more depth than the straight up black stuff. I also like Egg Plant for a dark purple look. All retail for $3.50. MAC has a nice Lipstick in Cyber which is a black purple with a satin finish. It is a bit hard to work with because it has too much “slip”. It retails for $14. Make Up For Ever has a lovely glimmery navy lipstick in Pearly Blue Black and it retails for $19. I also like their Blueberry which is a deep berry. Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Black Cherry is a deep blood wine lipstick with a bit of sheen. It retails for $7.99.

For the Closet Goth: For a deep lip with a bit of color, try YSL Rouge Volupte Silky Sensual Lipstick in Forbidden Burgundy, a rich deep berry. Plus, the packaging will make you feel like a queen. As it should with its $34 price tag. One of my favorites is MAC Viva Glam III which is a matte deep plum. It is dark but it looks “classic” and not a bit like a purple crushed velvet cape. It retails for $14. Another one that is nice is the new Revlon Matte Collection Lipstick in Wine Not. It is a deep, classic matte wine that retails for $7.99. Max Factor Lipfinity 3D Maxwear Lipcolor in Violet Vamp is a nice medium wine with a purple shimmer topcoat that retails for $8.99 (no longer available in the US). Lipstick Queen Wine Sinner Lipstick is one of my favorite blackberry wine shades. It retails for $18. Also I love Chanel Creme Lipstick in Vamp which retails for $28.

For the Wusses: Go for something dark but really sheer. It makes you feel edgy without getting strange stares from your co-workers. I like Urban Decay Apocalypse which is a sheer blackberry in killer packaging. It has a soft vanilla fragrance and retails for $22. One of the best for this category is Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey. It’s so popular for its edge but wearable factor. It feels great on the lips and retails for $14. Black Radiance has a sheer deep-red  brown Radiant Lip Gloss in Mocha Madness. It retails for $2.99 and looks great over other colors to “deepen” them. A lip stain is always a way to get color without harshness. Try something like Urban Decay Lip Envy in Greedy which retails for $17. Lipstick Queen Big Bang Theory Lip Gloss in Black Hole is a lovely deep wine shimmer. It is buildable for more or less drama. It retails for $20. Or for the daring, wouldn’t you love to bust out a black lipstick during a board meeting or something? Try Lipstick Queen Black Tie Optional Lipstick for $18. It is super sheer, and yes black. It just adds a tiny bit of darkness.

Le Smoking 1975

After Yves Saint Laurent’s death, I only find it great timing that the fall makeup collection for 2008 is “Tuxedo”, the look that is his legacy. I’m sure this was planned before the company had any idea of Yves’s health status. These collections are made years in advance, but this is a great collection to come out when it has. Yes, it is more smoky eye, very strong and very “seductive”. Which it has to be, to compete with the sleek androgyny of a ladies’ tux. Menswear on ladies was pretty hip before YSL but he mainstreamed it. Yes, dykes in clubs sported the look before it hit Vogue, vamps and violets,  and Dietrich was signature in this look. Chanel wore men’s clothing but these ladies weren’t the typical public. YSL brought this to the public in the 60’s, just when gender roles were being openly bended.

YSL offers for the fall/winter season Tuxedo which contains some nice collector’s palettes and of course it is all about luxury and glamour.And that ain’t cheap.

EYES: Palette Collection Collector Palette for the Eyes – This contains three shimmery shadows to create a smoky eye. There is an intense black, charcoal grey and glimmering champagne. It comes in a gold compact and the powders are stamped with a YSL logo. It retails for $60. There’s the Eyeliner Moire Liquid Eyeliner in Emerald Reflections which is a metallic jade green. This retails for $30. There’s the Everlong Lengthening Mascara in Ever Green which is a metallic jade green that retails for $27.50.They’ve also launched the new Ombres 5 Lumieres Colour Harmony for Eyes. These are eyeshadow compacts that contain 5 corresponding shades. They are available in 6 compacts: Sahara (warm sands and browns), Indian Pink (plums and pinks), Tawny (browns and neutrals), Lilac Sky (lilacs and purples), Riviera (blues and smoky blue shades), and Garden of Eden (khakis and greens). These sell for $56.

LIPS & NAILS: Rouge Pur Lipstick in Purple Velvet, a deep vampy berry, and Pink Satin, a soft baby doll mauve. There’s Rouge Pur Shine Sheer Lipstick in Shimmering Pink, a shimmering candy pink,  and Tuxedo Pink, an electric hot pink. All the lipsticks retail for $29. Also, available is the Golden Gloss Shimmering Lip Gloss in Golden Purple, a gold flaked blackberry,  and Golden Berry, a gold flaked Barbie pink. This formula contains real 24K gold and retails for $28.The Nail Lacquer is available in Tuxedo Gray, a shimmery gun metal gray,  and Rich Coffee, almost black but deep coffee shade. These retail for $19. I love the shades used for these lacquers.

FACE: There is a Palette Collection Collector Palette for the Complexion that looks like the eye compact and contains a sheer beige face powder, warm peach blush, and a pearly pink highlighter. This also has the YSL logo on the powder and is in a gold compact. Retails for $60. There is the Flash Radiance Skincare Brush which is a brightening cream highlighting skincare item that smooths fine lines with a silcon elastomer and erases fatigue with caffeine. It has a brush tip applicator and retails for $52. The company calls this their secret weapon. There is the Variation Blush in Silky Nude which contains both matte and shimmery powders of a perfect nude with a hint of pink. Retails for $42.

Overall, the collection is very “strong”. The lips are bold, the eyes are dark. It is very chic and very YSL. I like it that bold pinks for lips are being used for the fall/winter. It is a great mix of masculin and femme styles.