makeup instruction


I just love this picture of Bette Davis. The colors are beautiful against her fair complexion. I love a matte plum lip. It really works for most skin tones.

FACE: Apply a medium to full-coverage foundation such as Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation with fingertips. If extra coverage is needed apply a concealer like DuWop Surface where needed. Dust skin with an illuminating loose face powder such as Everyday Minerals Sunlight Finishing Dust (love that stuff). Take a fluffy blush brush and apply a sheer plummy pink blush such as Lancome Blush Subtil Sheer Powder Blush in Sheer Amourose to the apple of the cheeks.

EYES: Fill in brows with a pencil such as MAC Impecablle Brow Pencil (dirty blonde would be like Bette’s). For the shadows, you’ll need something like Too Faced Natural Eye Duo in Heaven & Teddy Bear. This consists of a cream and a medium brown. Apply the cream shade from lash line to brow. Take the medium shade and blend from lash line to crease. Take a finer brush and apply this medium shade to the bottom lash line. Take a brown eye liner like Bobbi Brown Creamy Eye Pencil in Walnut and line the top lash line, closely to the lashes. This will give the appearance of thicker and fuller lashes. Curl lashes and apply a few coats of mascara such as Benefit Big Brown Mascara. The warm tones in a brown mascara will make cool toned blue eyes look, well, bluer.

LIPS: Apply a lip crayon such as Bobbi Brown Lip Crayon in Raisin Berry (darker plummy brown) or Dusty Nude (medium plummy brown). I like this formula because it is easy to use, has full coverage, and doesn’t feel dry. You can all get this same type of look if you use a plummy lip liner pencil. Fill in lips with the pencil and apply a lip balm over it. I often find this too drying but it is long-wearing.

To get similar nails, apply 3 coats of Butter London Nail Lacquer in Yummy Mummy. It’s a beautiful beige. Picking a fragrance for this look is difficult. I’m thinking something flirty like Yosh Whiteflowers 1.41.

This is such an easy but polished look to pull off. It’s all about glowing skin and a bold but not brash lip. To get this look…

FACE: I would leave skin very sheer and just apply a highlighting cream/liquid such as Chanel Soleil de Tan de Chanel. I would use my fingertips to apply to the cheek bones to above the brow bones in a large “C” motion and down the nose. Cover up any “problem spots” with a concealer like CoverGirl Invisible Cream Concealer. Eartha’s skin is very dewy in this picture. Most people don’t like this look, I do, but if it bothers you apply concealer, oil-free pressed powder, then apply the illuminating cream/liquid. For a hint of color, apply a shimmery plum such as CoverGirl Cheekers Blush in Snow Plum to the apples of cheeks. Apply a small amount with a fluffy, medium-sized brush.

EYES: Brows are filled in and brushed into perfection. Fill in brows with a brow pencil in a brown shade such as Benefit Cosmetics Insta Brow Pencil. Brush in place with the spoolie on the other end of the pencil. With a large, fluffy shadow brush apply a shimmery taupe shade such as NYX Single Eye Shadow in Taupe from lash line to brows. Curl lashes and apply a do-it-all mascara such as Bobbi Brown Everything Mascara in black. Apply about 2 coats to top lashes and one coat to bottom lashes. The eyes are very bare for this look.

LIPS: Apply a lush shade such as MAC Lipstick in Plumful, a rosey plum.

If I had to choose a scent for this look, I’d have to go for Guerlain Iris Ganache EDP, a gourmand iris.

I’m giving a “pale” look for summer. It’s time to take a break from bronzers and gold shimmer.

FACE: To get this look apply a foundation such as Clinique Even Better Makeup (this is a foundation that lightens dark spots!). Apply concealer where needed. I like the creaminess of Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer. Take a fluffy powder brush and apply a pressed powder such as L’Oreal True Match Powder. Cheeks barely have any color. Apply a very light dusting of a sheer pinky peach blush like Everyday Minerals Matte Blush in Nick Nack to the apples of the cheeks.

EYES: Yvette’s thick brows are very dark in this pic. Take a slanted brow brush and apply a warm brown brow powder. For a color like Yvette’s try Bare Escentuals BareMinerals Brow Color in Brunette. With a large shadow brush, apply a pale ivory matte shadow such as Bobbi Brown Eye Shadow in Bone. Take a damp slanted liner brush and apply a cake eyeliner in a dark brown shade. I like Nvey Eco Cake Eyeliner in Brown. Apply a thick line, halfway to the crease. Do not “wing” out. Keep wetting and filling in. Take a fine liner brush that isn’t wet, rub it across the cake liner. Apply this to the bottom lash line to “thicken” the bottom lashes. Apply a few coats of mascara such as Too Faced Pinpoint Lash Injection in Hot Chocolate to top lashes and one coat to bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are so nude. I would start by applying a lip primer to take the “pink” out of the lips. Try a tinted product like Origins Underwear for Lips Perfecting Lip Primer. Apply a coat or two of MAC Lipglass in Florabundance. This is a pale peach with a little pink. I use it all the time to get this pale lip.

With the fragrance, I have to be so literal. I think a nice peony scent like Becker Eshaya b.e. EDP would fit perfectly for this look.

I am a lipstick gal. This is something that I wear daily. There is not a shade or a finish that I steer clear of. I was very intrigued when I heard that Tom Ford was launching a lipstick line with 12 colors (wasn’t that how many Private Blend fragrances that were initially launched?). I remember when Tom Ford did a few beauty stunts with Estee Lauder. I was in love with the packaging. The colors in Tom Ford’s own line are much better than those offered by Estee Lauder years ago. The colors range from muted vanillas to fiery 50’s corals to classic bricks. Don’t forget the red. Tom Ford describes these shades as being “re-imagined in a modern and authoritative way”. Yeah, whatever that means. I’ve seen all of these colors before and these shades have been around forever. I guess these are “authoritative” if you aren’t used to seeing your pout covered in bold pigments. The finish is satin, moist but with no sparkle. I do love the finish since it is moist enough to give lips a younger and plumper appearance. Fine lip lines look smooth. I tire of sparkle since it can be created with a gloss top coat. However, the finishes of this lipstick are not as “jelly” and lush as those pictured in his super sexy ads. Nothing in a tube alone creates a finish like that. I wish the company would let out what gooey lip gloss they are using to achieve that Guy Bourdin look. Anyways, the colors are richly pigmented. The formula is creamy with lots of pigment so it does travel. Half a tube will be on your travel mug. It isn’t long-wearing but like I said earlier, the formula is kind to the lips. Lip lines are “filled” in. I haven’t noticed any feathering but I do predict that it could happen.

They have a vanilla aroma, mild enough. It only adds to the butteriness and creaminess of these lipsticks. These are sooo creamy.The packaging is pretty but I expected more vintage charm. Oh, well. I still like it. It is deco enough for me. The ads are super sexy or vulgar depending on your take on Tom Ford. He’s a man that sells sex. He saved Gucci that way and brought YSL fragrances back into the picture.

These retail for $45 each. It’s costly but you’re a grown-up. You know what you will or won’t spend money on. I wouldn’t say this is the best lipstick I’ve ever used, but it is up in my top 5. I’d rather have one of these than 2 of Chanel’s. Currently, they are available at Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. So, what did I end up with? True Coral. However, I would love Black Orchid for the fall/winter. Ginger Fawn would make a nice “everyday” color for spring/summer. Check out the website for all of the colors. Between my love of his fragrances and these lipsticks, I’m never going to have enough money to finish my home restoration…

I just want summer to be here! Here’s a very easy to wear sunkissed 70’s look. It’s a nice look, but man, I hate 70’s hair…

FACE: Apply a no-fuss tinted moisturizer to clean skin. I like the formula and color selection of Bobbi Brown SPF Tinted Moisturizer. Dust a natural looking bronzer like Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder all over the face. Apply a little more to the cheeks to use as a blush.

EYES: Brows are thick and very natural. Apply a clear brow wax such as Anastasia Brow Fix Clear Wax Pencil. Apply a cream eyeshadow with your finger tips to the entire eye lid. I like the color of NARS Single Cream Eyeshadow in Corfu, a slightly glimmering taupe. Line top lashes and bottom lashes closely with a soft liner pencil like L’Oreal Le Kohl Pencil Smooth Defining Eyeliner in a charcoal shade like Smoke. Apply a black mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are a pale taupe. MAC Lipstick in Tanarama is the perfect shade for this look. Apply it to lips and then blot on a tissue to finish this laid back look.

This really is a simple, quick look that works blondes, brunettes, redheads, anybody with a warm, tan complexion. You can even be like Ali and not wash your hair for it…

Jane is one of my favorite blondes. This gal was never dressed down. This made her a star. Jane’s classic look here is perfect for all complexions, hair colors, eye colors, etc. in my opinion. It’s about false lashes and bold, matte lips.

FACE: Jane’s complexion is perfection in this look. Apply concealer where needed. I like the long-wearing formula of Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Concealer. Apply a satin foundation like MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation. Dust with a loose powder. I like Lancome Absolue Powder because it isn’t “dry” looking. It helps with a glowing complexion look and to keep foundation smooth. Apply a pink blush to cheeks such as Covergirl Classic Color Blush in Rose Silk. I really do love this color and its price.

EYES: Jane’s brows look great. To get a similar look, apply a brow pencil such as Bobbi Brown Brow Pencil in a shadow for your complexion. Brush brows with a brow brush. Apply a buttery yellow shadow to the entire eye lid area. If you prefer a powder try BareMinerals Eye Shadow in Soul, a creamy beige shadow. If you like cream, try Benefit Lemon Aid. Thickly apply a liquid liner to top lash line, about 75%, not the entire top lash line. I like Revlon Colorstay Liquid Liner in Brown Black. You’ll really need false lashes to get more of the “exact” look. I would apply individual lashes or half lashes to the top lashes, really emphasizing the outer portion. Everyone has their own way of doing this. Apply mascara to bottom lashes.

LIPS: Since this is a matte lipstick look, lips should be flake free. Scrub and apply lip balm thickly to lips hours before. Apply a simple, matte pencil such as NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Damned. Color in the lines. I also like MAC Lipstick in Impassioned for this look. The formula is an amplified cream. It’s satin, just a little bit more glossy and “forgiving” than a full-blown matte.

November 11th, 1939

I love this “fresh” look ofJean Arthur. It’s a simple vintage look that looks good on a variety of complexions. I promise that the orangey lip will make blue eyes pop. To get this look:

FACE: Apply a liquid foundation such as Neutrogena Healthy Skin Liquid Makeup and blend. Apply concealer if needed. A stick concealer like NARS Concealer is nice for the under eye area and blemishes. Apply a pressed powder such as Neutrogena Healthy Skin Pressed Powder in your shade. An orange blush will brighten the complexion and it will make cool eye colors pop. I would of recommended NARS Blush in Taj Mahal (RIP)…try Shu Uemura Glow On Blush in P Orange 53. This is an intense orange shade like NARS Taj Mahal. I recommend for pale to medium skin tones to apply this with a fan brush or a highlighting dabber brush such as Lancome Brush #3, any brush that picks up less pigment. Apply a small amount to cheeks and blend and blend. If you feel it looks uneven blend with your pressed powder. I love orange blush. It looks scary but I promise that it works on a variety of skin tones.

EYES: Jean has thin penciled in brows. Brush brows in their place with a brow comb and fill in with a brow pencil like MAC Impeccable Brow Pencil. Eye shadow is so simple. Take a nude-to-you duo. For a complexion like Jean’s try Physician’s Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free Duo in Taupe Minerals. Take the lightest beige shade and apply from lash line to brow. In the crease, apply a medium brown shade. Line top lash line closely with a black eyeliner pencil like Shiseido Smoothing Eyeliner Pencil in Black. Jean is wearing false eye lashes. If you want to avoid that hassle, curl lashes and apply a lengthening mascara like NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara. I would apply a few coats to top lashes and only one coat to bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are so simple. Lipstick Queen Chinatown Glossy Pencil in Genre is the perfect product for Jean’s look. Just take the pencil and stay in the lines.

I love 60’s cop/spy dramas. Ironside isn’t my favorite but I do love the take on 60’s San Francisco. I also love fellow Tennessean, Barbara Anderson, AKA Officer Eve Whitfield. In the show, she often sported dramatic matte white shadow and thick liner and false lashes with pearly lipstick. In this picture, she is a bit more “natural”. I did find her hairstyle a bit unfortunate for some of the show’s history, my husband refers to it as a Bald Eagle hairstyle. I do see the resemblance, especially from the side. However, I do find it fitting and quite “sporty” for a 60’s female police officer. To get this look:

FACE: If you are going to be arresting out-of-control hippies, you’ll need a long wearing foundation like Revlon Colorstay Makeup. Dust with a loose powder like Bobbi Brown Sheer Finish Loose Powder in your shade. Cheeks are natural but they do have a slight bit of color. Apply a sheer shade like Physician’s Formula Mineral Blush Talc-Free Powder Blush in Natural Glow.

EYES: Brows are natural looking but they are in place. I recommend a clear wax such as Anastasia Brow Fix Clear Wax Pencil. Apply a pale peach shadow from lash line to brows. I love the color of Revlon Matte Eye Shadow in Peach Sorbet. It adds more warmth than the usual beige shade. From lash line to crease apply a rich espresso shadow like Clinique Colour Surge Eye Shadow Super Shimmer in Black Coffee. After applying the rich brown shade, get a shimmery peach shade such as Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-In-Place Shadow Stick in Golden Peach and apply to the inner corner of the eye, closest to the nose. Blend it in. This creates some “light”. Take a black liquid liner like MAC Liquid Eye Liner in Boot Black. Apply it half way, thickly to the top lash line. Apply false lashes or lots of thickening mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are very simple. Choose a nice apricot-ish pearly lipstick such as Revlon Super Lustrous Pearl Lipstick in Silver City Pink. If you want extra shine, dab bottom lip with a clear lip gloss like Bobbi Brown Crystal Lip Gloss.

Kay Francis 1934

I love this magazine of Kay Francis. The colors are beautiful. To get this polished 30’s look do the following:

FACE: Apply a medium coverage liquid foundation such as Physician’s Formula Organic Wear Liquid Foundation. Apply concealer where needed. L’Oreal Infallible Concealer is a nice all-purpose concealer. Lightly dust a translucent powder over the face such as Coty AirSpun Loose Powder. Cheeks are very pink. Apply a hot pink powder blush like NARS Powder Blush in Desire to the apples of cheeks. A little bit of this shade goes a long way.

EYES: Brows are thin and penciled in. For a “waxy” authentic 1930’s brow look, apply a brow pencil and do not blend. I recommend Covergirl Brow Shaper. There is a Midnight Black for Kay’s look. Use Physician’s Formula Organic Wear Duo Eye Shadow in Brown Eyes. Apply the lightest shade, a soft warm ivory, from lash line to brow bone. Take the darker brown shade and blend into the crease. Take a small eyeshadow brush and line the bottom lashes with the darker brown shade used in the crease. Take a sheer gold shadow such as Bare Escentuals Bare Minerals Glimmer Eyeshadow in True Gold, and apply to the lid. Apply it sweeping from the side closest to the nose to the center of the lid. This creates a “glowing” look. Apply a brown kohl liner for a smoky look. Try something L’Oreal HIP Kohl Liner in Brown Kohl. Take a fine liner brush and dip it into the powder. Line eyes and smudge with a shadow brush. Apply liner to top and bottom lashes. Keep applying enough to you reach your desired level of “smokiness”. Apply a few coats of a black/brown mascara such as Covergirl Lash Blast Lengthening Mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are red and glossy. Apply a sheerer red such as Lipstick Queen Lipstick in Red Saint. Apply a red lip gloss with shimmer. Apply Lipstick Queen Big Bang Theory Illusion Gloss in Energy over lipstick. A sheerer option is to use NARS Lip Gloss/Lip Stain Duo in Moon Fleet/Indian Red Coat with the stain and follow with the gloss.

This is such a soft and delicate vintage look. I love the freshness of this look. Everything is fairly simple and it is all about a healthy, glossy lip. Anyone can wear a look like this. The neutral colors look great with all kinds of eye and hair colors.

FACE: Apply a simple foundation such as Covergirl Smoothers Liquid Foundation to even out the complexion. If extra coverage in some areas is needed, apply a concealer like Covergirl Fresh Complexion Concealer. Dust a loose powder in your color over the foundation and concealer to absorb oil and to set the foundation. Almay Nearly Naked Loose Powder is a nice formula for the price. A sheer blush should be added to the apples of the cheeks. I love the neutral color of Jane Be Pure Mineral Blush in Rose Silk.

EYES: Brows are perfectly shaped and only need a clear brow gel to keep them in their place. Try something like Revlon Brow Styling Gel. Eye makeup is very simple and fuss-free. All you need is a neutral duo such as NARS Eyeshadow Duo in Portobello. Apply the lightest beige shade from lash line to brow bone. Apply the darker beige in the crease. Take a brown eye liner and apply closely to the top lash line. Clarins Eye Liner Pencil in Brown is a nice and smooth pencil liner. Curl lashes and apply a coat of a brown/black mascara to top and bottom lashes.

LIPS: Lips are a nice rose and glossy. Apply a sheer lip liner such as Dior Glossy Liner in Glossy Rose. This will keep the lip gloss from bleeding. Apply a simple pink/rose lipstick such as Lipstick Queen in Rose Saint. Apply a shiny lip gloss over this color. Try something like Kiss My Face Organic Shine in Ruby. Apply it to a lip brush as to not “wipe” off your lipstick color. Or you can apply something like MAC Slimshine Lipstick in Intimidate, a sheer plummy rose lipstick. It won’t be as shiny but it makes this a “quick” and every day look.

I say that this look calls for a fruity-rose fragrance such as Creed Spring Flowers EDP.

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